I was told that the golden rule when positioning a camp is “look up, look down”. Look up into the tree for dead or broken branches that could fall on you during the night. Look down for the tell tale ripple patterns in leaf litter or soil, indicating common water channels in wet weather. Also don’t camp on old track ways as the compacted wheel ruts also form very effective water channels. If possible choose a flat level piece of ground. I find that I sleep ok if my legs are pointing down a slight slope, but not if they are up or across a slope, also find an area with a slight dip in the middle (or dig one out) for your hip bone i.e. contour the ground to your body shape. Similarly, if possible find a sheltered location (tree / bush cover) away from water to avoid being woke up by insects or leaves blowing through the camp. One final point don’t position your camp at the base of a slope as this forms a cold air trap and is likely to have heavy dew in the morning. Therefore, spend a little time positioning the camp accordingly, to ensure a comfortable, safe, dry night.
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Figure 2.1.0 : Tarp (top), hanging hoops, Prusik tensioning knot (bottom)
A waterproof flysheet, commonly called a Tarp (tarpaulin), Basha (British army, I believe the word has its origins in India, an improvised shelter made of bamboo with a thatched roof), Hoochie (Australian army). This simple, light weight shelter is very versatile and easy to put up. When camping in woodland it can be hung between two trees, as shown in figure 2.1.0 (this example is a British army DPM version approx 8’ x 7’). The main line is tied to the first tree at chest height (lower down in bad weather) using a Evenk slippery figure of eight hitch, sliding the knot tight up to the tree (figure 2.1.3). The other end using a tarp taut hitch, applying sufficient tension to keep the tarp from sagging (figure 2.1.3). The tarp is suspended from the main line via metal or material hoops. Added four brass hoops to the central reinforcing strap (bottom figure 2.1.0), looped under handles and sewed into position with button cotton, the theory being that this would allow the tarp to hang better (not sure it does, but works fine). At each end there is a Prusik knot (cordage, knot section) allowing you to position and tension the tarp on the main line. Tip, move the prusik knots in a little when you are tensioning the main line i.e. to make sure you are tensioning the main line and not the tarp. The corner guide ropes are tied to convenient points using a midshipman’s or a slippery sliding loop knot (figure 2.1.4) e.g. improvised wooden tent pegs, rocks, trees, or logs etc. The further away the guide ropes are positioned the flatter the tarp will hang, maximising your view when under the tarp. In bad weather the guidelines can be positioned closer in, to give more protection. Tip, chose white or reflective main and guide ropes and hank any spare cord, to help reduce accidents in the dark. However, saying this I have switched to a green cordage to match the tarp. I now carry four tent pegs (split birch), which have wrapped round them the side guide ropes (makes life simpler). These are attached to the tarp using a loop and peg (figure eight knot) as shown in figure 2.1.1 (quick release). To stow the tarp, first remove the side guide ropes, wrapping each around a peg, secure free end with 4 – 5 turns and finish by placing the loop over the top of the peg (snug fit). An alternative to wrapping the cord around a peg is to hank the cord. This is done by wrapping the cord around your thumb and little finger in a figure of eight actions. Then the last 30cm of the cord is wrapped around the bundle, tucking the free end under the last couple of turns. Tip, start hanking the cord at the figure of eight loop, such that when attached to the tarp the cord can simply be pulled out. I find this tarp a little more difficult to stow than others, as it has thick reinforced edges. Thin tarps can be simply pleated, folded in half whilst hanging from the main line and then wrapped / compressed using the main line into a small bundle. This tarp needs a little more effort, first free one end of the main line and pull tarp off, folding it in half and half again as it is removed. Lay the tarp on the ground, fold one edge to the middle, then fold the tarp in half again such that the reinforced edges are not all on one edge, roll up and with a little persuasion should now fit into its bag. The main tarp line is detached from the tarp and stored separately as this line is not required for all configurations. Store pegs, main line and tarp in the top pocket of the rucksack for easy access.
When camping out the weather has that annoying habit of doing the unexpected. You can pitch your camp and the day is sunny, gentle wind and a joy to be outside. However, you can almost guarantee that if you have taken a few short cuts in setting up your camp e.g. I wont need a bivi bag tonight, it will chuck it down at 1am in the morning. A good example is being woken up by water dripping from the underside of the tarp, either dripping on your face or worse wetting your sleeping bag. During heavy, sustained rain, water will run down the trunk of the trees supporting the tarp. This water flows down the trunk until it hits the ridge line, where it then takes the path of least resistance and flows down this rope to your Prusik knot, then the underside of your tarp. This water then flows along the tarp until it reaches a loop or a high point in the stitching and then starts to drip. To prevent this you need to put in a drip line, between the tree and the tarp, as shown in figure 2.1.2. This is a simple loop of cord, in this example tied with a Bosun’s Whistle knot, which is then attached to the ridge line with a Lark’s foot knot. When water runs down the ridge line it will now hit this knot and be deflected off and towards the ground. This simple line works very well, however, in heavy rain the wicking (capillary) effect of the ridge line’s fibres can allow some water to continue down the rope towards the tarp. In these cases a second drip line may be required. Note, any piece of cord can be used to form a drip line e.g. tying the free end of the ridge line on with a simple overhand knot.
Figure 2.1.1 : Guide ropes
Figure 2.1.2 : Drip line
An alternative to buying a tarp is to do a bit of DIY, as shown in figure 2.1.2. Made from an old builders tarp, the kind you can get from a builders merchant or DIY store. Smaller than the previous example, approx 6’ x 5’. I made this tarp as a supplement to the main tarp i.e. as a windbreak, small shelter for cooking, folded it’s something to sit on (surprisingly warm, folds down to A4 size) and to wrap your rucksack in at night keeping it off the damp ground and dry. To simplify construction its cut out of the corner of a larger tarp allowing the existing metal eyelets and string reinforcements to be used on two of the edges. The other two cut edges are hemmed by gluing the edge over using Evo-stik impact adhesive. The corners are then re-enforced by gluing over a rectangle (18cn – 9cm) of spare tarp material, forming three layers. Tip, cut out a paper template to simplify this job, when gluing take your time as you cant adjust the surfaces when they come into contact. Ropes are attached to the corners using snap and fix eyelets. To add these remove the washer and use this to mark the hole’s position (2-3cm from each edge). Cut this out using a knife tip, be careful when cutting these as its easy to accidentally slip and slice through the tarp. Push through the eyelet base, pushing the tarp down and around it before clicking on the top half, locking it in position using a mallet.
Figure 2.1.2 : DIY Tarp
If two suitably spaced trees can not be found, poles can be used to replace one or both trees. The main tarp I have has metal reinforced holes at each corner and along its edge. This allows a number of possible configurations as shown in figure 2.1.4.1. If possible each pole should be pushed into the ground, or a hole dug using a digging stick, to give the structure more stability. If a suitable pole can not be found (normally when you most need one) shorter poles can be lashed together as shown in figure 2.1.4.2. The wood that will form the main pole is placed in line and a shorter branch used to bridge the gap. Two whippings either side of the join secure the shorter branch (surgeons knot to finish), round pegs can be driven under the whippings to increase tension. The main advantage of a tarp is its light weight, and small size when rolled up. Its disadvantages are that it lacks privacy and protection against the bugs (good insect repellent required). As for tents ensure that the tarp is positioned at a safe distance form your fire to prevent sparks burning holes etc. Below are some useful documents on tarps ive found on the web (due to possible copyright conflicts these are only accessible from the local machine) :
Figure 2.1.3 : Evenk slippery figure of eight hitch (top) and Tarp taut hitch (bottom)
Evenk slippery figure of eight hitch : twist hand over main line, use finger to pull free end loop through, tighten. Tarp taut hitch : wrap line around tree, tension, wrap free end around main line and back round, increase tension, form free end loop, tie a overhand knot around main line with loop, tighten, form another free end loop, pass through loop formed in overhand knot, tighten.
Figure 2.1.4 : Midshipman’s knot (top) and Slippery sliding loop knot (bottom)
Figure 2.1.4.1 : Tarp lean-to and Tarp tent
Figure 2.1.4.2 : Pole lashing
When im out I always carry on me (day or main rucksack) an orange survival bivi bag and a reflective foil blanket (figure 2.1.5). The bivi bag is just a thick gauge plastic bag that can be used as a water proof sleeping bag, reducing wind chill (forming a layer of warm air around the body). The foil blanket is a thin plastic sheet with a reflective aluminium layer, reflecting radiated heat back to the body. In an emergency combine the two and put on any spare cloths you have with you. If possible, gather a bed of bracken, leaves or pine branches to form an insulating layer between you and the ground (reduces conduction of body heat into the ground). The contents of my rucksacks side pocket is shown in figure 2.1.5.1, starting top left in a clockwise direction, survival bivi bag, reflective foil blanket, chocolate, survival kit, hand warmer.
Figure 2.1.5 : Bivi bag and a reflective foil blanket
Figure 2.1.5.1 : Backpack side pocket contents
The first choice is whether to carry tent pegs, or to make them a new each night. In woodland this isn’t a big job, however, in more barren landscapes when you need them its surprising how difficult suitable non-punky wood can be to find, especially when it’s starting to rain. To make a temporary tent peg a quick and simple split peg can be used, as shown in figures 2.1.6 and 2.1.6.1, of course whole branches of a suitable diameter could also be used. When splitting staves out of a branch place the axe at the end of the log and raise them up together (keeping them parallel) and hit them down onto a wooden block (to protect the axe’s cutting edge on the follow through). Tip, when the axe head is imbedded in the log hold the end of the log and pull the axe handle to the side, twisting the axe head to help continue the split down the log. Repeat to produce staves of the required thickness. Next, stand the stave vertically on the block and use the axe to remove the bark. SAFETY TIP, only work on the bottom half of the stave, turning it around when complete. Also ensure that you don’t raise the axe head above your fingers and ensure your fingers are always behind the axe blade.
Figure 2.1.6 : Splitting out staves
Figure 2.1.6.1 : Quick tent pegs
I normally use simple split tent pegs, the bottom frame of figure 2.1.6.1, halved Hazel rods. When making these pegs don’t carve the point too sharp as it will be easily damaged if hammered into hard or stony soil. This is especially true if the wood is green, these can be hardened in the ash of a fire, but preferably seasoned wood should be used. These simple pegs don’t have a rope notch, therefore, it must be hammered into the soil at an angle to prevent the rope sliding off as shown in the first frame of figure 2.1.7. The general advice is to hammer the peg into the ground at a 45 degree angle, with the rope coming off the peg at a 90 degree angle, helping to prevent it from sliding off (up) the peg. Tip, ensure the rope is low down on the peg, touching the soil, as this will reduce the leverage affect of the attached rope on the peg, helping to stop the peg from working loose.
Figure 2.1.7 : Tent peg angles
If you decide to carry tent pegs with you there are a number of common styles, as shown in figure 2.1.8. To form the rope notch first saw in a stop cut to the required depth, then carve up into the cut to form the notch. Tip, add a small bevel around the edge of the notch to help prevent the rope catching on or splintering the sides. There seems to be three basic shapes / profiles, triangle (top frame), round (middle frame) and rectangular (bottom frame). Reading around three sizes are commonly used, 6", 9" and 12", the length used being dependent on the soil i.e. the more unstable the soil is (sandy / leaf litter) the deeper the peg must be hammered into the ground. All of these pegs are made from staves split from a larger branch, such that the grain runs down the full length of the peg, maximising its strength. As these pegs have a rope notch they can be hammered into the ground at 90 degrees as shown in the middle frame of figure 2.1.7. Tip, the peg should be hammered into the ground such that its widest face is facing the direction of the rope coming off the peg i.e. towards the tent or tarp. This helps stop the peg working loose as it provides the maximum contact area / resistance against the ground.
Figure 2.1.8 : Standard tent pegs
An alternative approach to setting tent pegs is to drive them into the ground at a 45 degrees with the top of the peg pointing towards the tarp or tent, as shown in the right frame of figure 2.1.7. The theory is that setting the peg like this helps prevent it from working loose i.e. the loading is applied straight through the peg stopping it from being rocked loose. For long pegs the suction / friction on the peg due to the surrounding soil prevents it from being pulled out. For shorter pegs additional notches are required in order to increase its grip, some examples are shown in figure 2.1.9. Although the theory sounds good not sure how it compares to more traditional approaches, as I normally use simple pegs angled at a 45 degrees away from the tarp(first frame figure 2.1.7).
Figure 2.1.9 : Complex tent pegs
In very loose / unstable soil conditions it can be difficult to get a tent peg to hold fast. In such situations you need a longer peg as shown in figure 2.1.10. These can be quickly roughed out from a branch with suitable side branches which can be cut to form the top rope notch. The example in figure 2.1.10 is made from Birch, however any species that grows straight with regular side branches can be used e.g. Pine etc. Saw the top off square and remove any unwanted side branches with an axe etc. Tip, to allow such pegs to be driven into the soil to the required depth they may need to be thicker than the standard designs. In very sandy soils e.g. beach or dunes, an alternative solution is to use a sand anchor as shown in figure 2.1.10.1. Dig a hole 30+ cm in depth and place the anchor on the bottom, then fill the hole leaving the rope exposed, to which the guide ropes can be attached. Tip, to further increase its holding capability, firm the soil in using your heel, place stones on top. The example in figure 2.1.10.1 is a complex design (made during those idle moments when wood and knife present themselves) with a wooden back washer and adjustable loop (midshipman’s knot). A simpler solution which is just as good can be made from a bundle or what ever small branches / trigs that can be found at that time.
Figure 2.1.10 : Long tent pegs
Figure 2.1.10.1 : Sand anchor
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