I’ve always had an interest in primitive hunting and trapping as its one of the earliest examples of mechanical engineering e.g. windlasses, springs, pulleys and levers. The selection of materials with the correct properties to meet requirements e.g. wood, bone or stone. This interest is purely theoretical as I have never used these techniques in the wild. I would also add that in normal situations you should NOT use these techniques in the UK as some are illegal and others require the correct permits, licenses or the land owners permissions.
Back to IndexThis type of live capture cage trap is also known as a coop or old English cribbett trap, designed to catch ground birds e.g. pheasant, quail etc, however I guess it could equally be used to catch other types of birds if positioned and baited correctly e.g. pigeons etc. The basic principle is that the cage is placed on a flat piece of ground with one edge propped up using a trigger mechanism to form an opening. Bait is either attached to this trigger or sprinkled around it such that when activated the cage falls to the ground capturing the bird. Different countries have their own variation on this trap, typically dictated by what construction materials are available. The cage is made from stacking branches on top of each other to form a pyramid, the base varying in size from 15" to 36" depending on what size of bird is being trapped. In this example the initial base is made from branches about 1" thick, the corner joints are stabilised using a simple slot or a more stable butterfly notch (more difficult to align), secured using a Japanese square lashing (cordage section). Tip, I found that to make a reliable trap the base needs to be very rigid, to achieve this two back corner braces are used as shown in figure 9.2.0. The sides of the trap are then made by alternatively stacking pairs of branches one on top of another, each layer moved inwards by 1" to form a pyramid. In this example 28 sticks are used, the larger the sticks the less required, in practice it can be difficult to find a good supply of uniform braches i.e. slightly bent, tapered etc. Note, some books recommend that the bottom two layers should be stacked directly on top of each other before starting to move the branches inwards.
Figure 9.2.0 : Cage construction
There are a number of different methods of securing the branches to form the cage. This structure is naturally unstable i.e. a tower constructed of rollers, therefore, the most secure method is to individually lash each joint. However, this requires a lot of cordage, approximately one to two metres per lashing i.e. for this example at least 28m, a lot of cord if it has to be made by hand. A number of different techniques are commonly used to reduce the amount of cordage required, as shown in figure 9.2.1. The top frame of figure 9.2.1 uses a single sprung bar to apply downwards pressure, holding the branches in position. Tip, I found this technique worked best when a larger log was used to provide a pivot point, if not the downwards force is not applied equally making the cage unstable, also ensure that at each joint the branches overlap by about 2" so that if there is any movement within the cage its structure is maintained. The bottom frame of figure 9.2.1 uses a windlass to generate the downwards pressure. A cord is attached to each corner and feed up the inside of the cage through a top bar with a small hole cut through it. This bar has two bottom slots to hold it in position on the cage and a top slot to prevent the tensioning bars from unwinding. An alternative configuration is to attach the cord to the middle of each base branch, the cord can then be feed up the inside of the cage or weaved through the side branches, helping to hold them in position (maybe). Tip, this cord needs to be very strong, in this example a three strand plait was used, as significant force is applied to the cord when the tensioning bar is twisted, also tie these cords quite tight otherwise you need to apply a lot of twisted to achieve the required pressure.
Figure 9.2.1 : Securing cage side branches
To hold this cage open and present the bait to the bird a trigger mechanism is required. The classic figure four trigger is shown in figure 9.2.2, bait being pushed onto the tip of the trigger bar (positioned under the cage) or sprinkled around it, to increase the probability of the bird bumping into it. There are a number of different methods of making this mechanism, the best one I have been shown is based on a split branch. This naturally forms the two flat surfaces required to make the central latch. Note, the central slot carved into the horizontal trigger bar should be wider than the main upright, otherwise when the end of the trigger bar is pulled up there will be insufficient movement within the trigger to allow it to activate. Tip, most books show the diagonal element at 45 degrees, this increases leverage on the central latch, making it less sensitive. Increasing this angle allows most of the force to be directed down the vertical support, reducing the pressure on the latch making the trigger a lot easier to trip. One problem with this mechanism is that it will not activate (less sensitive) if the tip of the trigger bar is pulled down or pushed towards the vertical element. In these situation if there is sufficient pressure within the central latch the whole mechanism can be pushed aside without tripping. Where possible the central element should be pushed into the ground a bit to prevent it from rotating. Figure 9.2.3 shows a couple of variant on the classic figure four trigger design. This version uses the full width of the split branch reducing the pressure on the central pivot. This design is also activated by up, down, left and right movements of the trigger bar. Tip, to increase sensitivity the notches in the trigger bar should be quite shallow (up/down triggering), also the back latching point should be quite narrow (left/right triggering). The last two frames in this picture show a modification to this design using a slot instead of a cut out, improving the strength of the vertical element. Tip, the slot should be slightly wider than the trigger bar and deep enough to allow the trigger bar to move freely within the vertical element. Otherwise, when the trigger is activated the trigger bar can be snapped by the falling cage.
Figure 9.2.2 : Classic figure four trigger
Figure 9.2.3 : Variant on figure four trigger
Figure 9.2.4 shows the trigger mechanisms commonly used by an old English cribbett trap. The top frame illustrates a non-baited trigger relying on the bird bumping into or standing on a strung hoop. The branch forming the hoop is placed against the base uprights, having sufficient pressure to hold itself in position. Note, most books show this hoop reaching out to the edge of the cage, this hoop was made a little shorter i.e. the hoop is under the cage, so that when triggered the bird’s body will be fully in the cage. The main upright uses a forked stick to form a pivot, if one of the correct size can not be found the top of a straight branch can be split, tying a small stick at the base of the split to hold it open. The trigger bar is made from a thin flexible stick, to help hold this stick in position a small notch can be carved into its tip and the hoop. Note, this notch is not intended to take the full load of the trigger mechanism it only helps stop the trigger bar from slipping i.e. these notches should be quite shallow and rounded. The main force in the trigger mechanism is transferred through the trigger bar, pushing it down and into the bottom hoop. A variant on this design is shown in the bottom frame using two trigger bars having a "7" or hook like shape. The bottom trigger bar has a deep notch carved into it, the top trigger bar can also have a small notch carved into it to help hold it in place. This is again an non-baited trigger relying on the bird bumping into or standing on the bottom trigger bar, however, I have also seen a version with a small square board attached to the middle of the bottom bar onto which bait can be placed. Tip, this trigger can be a little difficult to set, changing the position and angle of the main upright can also help, also don’t carve the bottom notch to close to the end as cracking can occur as the wood dries causing the back of the notch to snap off.
Figure 9.2.4 : Old English cribbett trap trigger mechanisms
The trigger mechanism in figure 9.2.5 is one of my own design (maybe, haven’t seen it in a book), doesn’t have the simple elegance of the other mechanisms, perhaps could be classified as a complex trigger. The idea was to try and take advantage of the principles of levers in order to reduce the pressure on the trigger mechanism i.e. to make it more sensitive. Also to make it out of straight branches so that you didn’t have to spend a lot of time looking for specially shaped branches i.e. "Y" or "7". The cage is help open by a bar pivoting in a slot, the front and back faces carved out to allow the bar to rotate down about this point. A connecting rod links this bar to the bottom trigger, a triangular shaped bar placed into a corresponding slot in the main upright. This is held in position using your thumb and finger whilst the retaining rod is placed in position, i.e. wedged between the back of the cage and the trigger. Works well but a lot more work than the other examples. The final trigger shown in figure 9.2.5.1 is based on a design from the Paiute Indian’s (I think), this design uses a length of string and a toggle bar held in position with a retaining rod, making this trigger particularly sensitive.
Figure 9.2.5 : A more complex trigger
Figure 9.2.5.1 : Paiute Indian trigger
A variation on the Paiute Indian trigger is shown in figure 9.2.6. This mechanism is from Sudan, using a trigger bar between the back of the cage and the front forked upright, bait being tied to this bar at the back of the cage. A lever bar is placed into the forked stick, with a connecting string and toggle bar providing enough pressure to hold the trigger bar in place. To adjust the lever bar angle, this bar is rotated i.e. wrapping the string around it, increasing or decreasing its length. The angle of this bar can be adjusted to increase or decrease the sensitivity of the trigger mechanism. Note, the front upright should be placed well in front of the cage and angled towards it, such that when the trap is triggered it does not stop the cage falling to the ground. An interesting alternative to the traditional front style trigger mechanisms is shown in figure 9.2.6.1. This example is from Thailand (I think), a wooden loop and toggle bar tied via a length of string attached to a fixed point on the ground. The trigger mechanism holds the cage open without requiring any obstacles in front of the cage. A ‘T’ shaped trigger bar holds the back toggle bar in place, this being pushed through the cage and baited. In the original text, this bar was baited with a live cricket, such that when a bird pulls at the bait the toggle bar is released triggering the trap.
Figure 9.2.6 : Trigger mechanism from Sudan
Figure 9.2.6.1 : Trigger mechanism from Muong Moun
A different style of front trigger mechanism is shown in figure 9.2.7. This example is based on a Maya Indian design from Mexico. The lower bar has a flat back with a step cut into. Into which a split stick is placed forming the main upright i.e. the two flat faces aligned, the friction between these surfaces holding the two bars together. To trigger this mechanism a loop of cord is wrapped around the front upright and the back of the cage forming a trip cord behind which a bait is placed. Note, in some drawings the trip cord is placed around the lower bar, also shown in this diagram a large stone is tied to the top of the cage to help hold the cage down. Tip, a shorter bottom bar produces a more stable trigger mechanism, also a quicker methods of producing this trigger is to saw two, half depth slots approximately 4" apart on either side of a thumb thick stick. Then push the tip of a knife into the base of one of these slots i.e. at 90 degrees to it, to encourage a split to form between these two slots, forming the required 'L' shaped sections. These can be trimmed to the required lengths. Tip, push the knife tip into both sides of each slot to encourage the split to run down the middle of the branch, when the split starts to form bending the stick helps.
An alternative to building the cage from overlapping sticks is to use a net, as shown in figure 9.2.7.1. This uses the same wooden base as the previous example with two short lengths of split Bamboo and a 2" mesh net to form the cage. The advantage of this approach is that it’s a lot quicker to make, assuming you already have a net. Note, used split Bamboo as I made this in the winter, didn’t have any flexible wands available, otherwise would have used Willow. The disadvantage of this style of trap is its reduced weight, increasing the risk that the trapped bird could over turn it. To overcome this problem thicker side branches could be used i.e. the top and bottom branches would remain the same. This means that when the trap is open most of this extra weight is transferred through the side branched to ground and not through the trigger, which would reduce its sensitivity. Another disadvantage is that it couldn’t be used to trap other prey e.g. rabbits as they could easily chew through the netting. Reading around there are quite a few examples of cages woven from flexible wooden wands or vines, which have the advantage of being more resilient than string. A common trigger mechanism used in dead fall traps is the Samson’s post as shown in figure 9.2.7.2. This trigger carries the full weight of the cage down the main upright onto an angled trigger bar. The intent being that when the prey moves this trigger i.e. to get to bait under it or remove bait on it, the main upright is dislodged causing the cage to fall. The key to this trigger is to impart a twisting motion on the main upright as it falls. To help ensure this occurs the trigger bar is typically placed on a stone or a wooden post hammered into the ground. This additional height above the ground allows the main upright to twist sideways, otherwise there is a danger that it will just move straight down, keeping the trap propped open. Another disadvantage of this trigger is that as the load is transferred directly through the main upright onto the trigger bar the two surfaces can become fused together, such that the trigger bar will swivel around the upright without triggering i.e. can be pushed to the side. To help prevent this hardwoods can be used, also the stone or the wooded block can be pushed into the ground to remove one turning surface. Also the base of the trigger stick that comes into contact with the stone or wooden post can be carved flat, increasing its surface areas, again helping to prevent the trigger bar from spinning. All of this increases the probability that the upright will fall off to the side, rather than being pushed to the side. Note, I found this to be a particular problem in windy location, it was quite common for the trigger bar to be blown to the side without triggering the trap. To increase the probability of the trigger bar being knocked off, a split trigger bar is shown in the bottom frame of figure 9.2.7.2. Another variation on this theme is the inverted Samson’s post trigger mechanism as shown in figure 9.2.7.3. First saw this example in a YouTube video, "Making a Box Trap – Live Pheasants" by northernpike56. As for the previous examples the bait is tied to the end of the trigger stick or placed beneath it. An advantage of this arrange is that the trigger stick can not become snagged, or rest upon the ground, which can prevent it from cleanly triggering. Disadvantage, found this trigger mechanism again quite sensitive to the wind, swinging the trigger bar into the net, this could have been due to the implementation I was using. In the YouTube video the trigger mechanism was made from a straight stick approximately finger thickness. The top of the main upright was cut square i.e. flat, and the trigger bar was left round with a short split in its end into which the bait was inserted. Tip, to prevent the trigger bar from rotating and to make the whole mechanism more stable cut a shallow 'V' into the top of the main upright as shown in the bottom left frame of figure 9.2.7.3. Alternatively using a knife tip a ball and socket joint can be carved as shown in the bottom right frame of figure 9.2.7.3. This doesn’t prevent the trigger bar rotating but it does improve its stability.
Experimenting with different triggers I’ve come up with another alternative design as shown in figure 9.2.7.4 (sure its been designed before, but I don’t have a reference). The main advantage of this trigger is that it can be made from a single piece of wood. Also you don’t need to find a piece with forks or side branches of particular sizes or shapes. First cut out a top notch large enough to hold the top branch of the cage. Approximately an inch below this saw a slot as shown in the top left frame of figure 9.2.7.4. As with the Mexico trigger use the tip of a knife to split down the length of the stick. Tip, take your time, you need to keep the split running true for the entire length of the stick. This forms the two halves of the trigger. When placed in position the weight of the cage is passed down through the main upright, the top stick holds the trap open and is held in place by a lower trigger stick, as shown in the top right frame of figure 9.2.7.4. Note, a small notch i.e. a '7' shape, is cut into the end of the top stick to prevent the lower trigger stick sliding up. The top stick is angled such that when the lower trigger stick is dislodged i.e. by the feeding bird, the weight of the cage will cause it swivel up, the back of the top notch pushing down on the main upright causing it to fall downwards springing the trap. Note, the flat side of main upright should be face up, this minimizes the area the top stick can swivel on, making the trigger more sensitive. Note, the key thing here is that the top stick is at almost 90 degrees to main upright. This means that due to the leverage of the top stick the lower trigger stick requires very little pressure to hold the trap open, making it very stable, but also very sensitive. Disadvantage of this trigger mechanism is that the long top trigger bar can become jammed between the bird and the back of the cage, possibly preventing the trap triggering cleanly. An alternative to this is a double trigger bar as shown in figure 9.2.7.5. Found this example in another YouTube video "Building and setting an Arapuca live bird trap" by Colhane. The top forked stick is very short removing the previous disadvantage. Tip, interlink the two trigger bars such that when one is knocked down it dislodges the second. In the example shown in figure 9.2.7.5, the tips of the trigger bars are split and interlocked, if this isn’t done the second trigger bar may not be moved preventing the trap from being triggered. Disadvantage of this trigger mechanism is that the trigger bars a quite near the front of the cage, increasing the chance of triggering the trap early.
Figure 9.2.7 : Trigger mechanism from Mexico
Figure 9.2.7.1 : Net cage trap
Figure 9.2.7.2 : Samson’s post trigger mechanism
Figure 9.2.7.3 : An inverted Samson’s post trigger mechanism
Figure 9.2.7.4 : A 'new' trigger mechanism
Figure 9.2.7.5 : Double bar trigger mechanism
Below are some useful documents on cage traps ive found on the web (due to possible copyright conflicts these are only accessible from the local machine) :
Hunting with nets is commonly used in aboriginal cultures across the world, particularly in Africa and Australia for both birds and mammals, large and small e.g. duck, emu, kangaroo etc. One argument for the use of hunting nets is that you expend less energy when compared with hunting with spear or throwing stick i.e. the net is staked out near a watering hole, nesting / sleeping site or the entrance of a burrow where the animals are expected to appear, allowing the hunters to sit and wait for them to arrive (sometimes driven into the nets by beaters). The big disadvantage of hunting nets is the amount of work required, in collecting material to make cordage, making the cordage, knitting the net and finally caring for the net i.e. repairing, drying and storing. To illustrate this here are some examples taken from a number of sources of different nets and the time to make them:
Hunting nets come in a number of different sizes and shapes. One of the smallest versions is the purse net. These are commonly used to catch rabbits being placed over a warren’s entrances. A ferret is then used to drive the rabbits out into the nets. Alternatively, I have read of them being placed across holes through gorse or bramble bushes i.e. game trails, and the rabbits again being driven out by a beater. Reading around the web these nets are commonly constructed using a top and bottom 1" metal ring as shown in figure 9.2.8. Not sure why these are required, could equally knit a standard square net as shown in figure 9.2.9. The rings could simplify storage allowing the net to be hung up or simplify setting allowing the net to be easily pulled apart to open. Alternatively, when pegged out the rings could help the draw string pull through more easily, allowing the net to close reliably, not sure, may just be you get a nicer net shape. The design of this net is based on a number of examples I’ve seen on the web, some of these links are listed below. The net is cast onto the top ring, using a 1.5" mesh stick and a natural fibre cordage. I find natural cordage holds a knot a lot better than artificial (nylon) cordage. Note a full ball of cord was required to construct this net, taking about half a day (a couple of evenings). The cord is tied onto the ring using a clove hitch, locked into position with an overhand knot. The cord is then looped around the mesh stick, then down through the top of the metal ring and then back up through the loop formed in the cord. The cord is then feed through the metal ring again forming a clove hitch. This process is then repeated to form eight loops, the more loops cast onto the metal ring the more purse shaped the net will be i.e. gathered up at these ends. With these initial loops formed the net is continued as for a standard square net (described in the cordage section) forming a 17 x 17 mesh or 26" square net. Note, the standard square net technique gives a nice re-enforced outer edge to the net. The final bottom metal ring can be simply threaded through the last eight loops as they are tied. Note, I normal whip these in place to make it look nice. Alternatively, using your fingers as spacers, clove hitches can again be used to lock the ring in position as you tie the last loops. When complete a nylon cord is weaved around the edge of the net forming the purse draw string. Note, a nylon cord is used as it is stronger and more slippery than a cord made from natural fibres of the same diameter. The cord is feed through the two metal rings, passing out of the bottom ring one length of cord each side of the ring, the two lengths of cord are then tied together with a figure eight knot a couple of inches below the bottom ring to prevent the cord from being pulled out. Note, pull the two rings apart before tying this knot to ensure the net is fully open i.e. there is sufficient draw string around the net. Finally the draw string is secured to a peg. In this example the free ends are again tied together using a figure eight knot, this loop is then feed through a small hole carved into the side of the peg and looped over to secure.
Figure 9.2.8 : Making a purse net
The purse net in top left frame of figure 9.2.9 is constructed without metal rings using a standard square net pattern. This net is 34" square using a 2.25" mesh stick, with the start and finishing mesh loops being used as a replacement for the metal rings. Reading around, the recommended mesh size varies from 1.5" to 2.5", the general consensus seems to be that a mesh size of 2" or a bit smaller is best, otherwise there is an increased risk of the game escaping. However, it should be remembered that a larger mesh size simplifies net construction, reducing the number of knots that need to be tied and the amount of cordage required. The purse nets shown in the bottom frame of figure 9.2.9 are constructed with metal rings using a 2" mesh stick to produce a 15 x 15 mesh square net. The standard net knot used in the construction of these nets requires strong, flexible cordage. This isn’t a problem for commercially available cordage, however, hand made cordage made from plant fibres needs a lot more careful handling i.e. they don’t like being bend or twisted too sharply. Therefore, im not sure if this technique would be the best one to use when making a net with this cordage. Reading around, an alternative technique is to weave the net.
Figure 9.2.9 : Square purse net
Below are some useful documents on netting ive found on the web (due to possible copyright conflicts these are only accessible from the local machine) :
Figure 9.2.10 : Snares
Figure 9.2.10.1 : Setting rabbit snares
1. Image : reference - http:// www.defra.gov.uk : Report of the Independent Working Group on Snares
Snares are the classic emergency / survival trap as they are quick and simple to make using basic tools and materials. Usually made from wire to prevent the animal chewing through its restraint, however, natural or man made cordage can also be used in spring type snare traps. These 'survival' type traps are in contrast with legal snares used to hunt rabbits etc which are designed to restrain instead of kill and minimise suffering. The use of illegal snares in inappropriate locations is the main reason for the bad name snares have got in the past. The construction and setting of snares should only be undertaken after professional training. The apparent simplicity of a snare hides a great deal of subtleties in its construction and use. These are important issues to avoid capturing non-target species and causing suffering to the animal. A legal snare should be a free running wire loop that loosens when the animal stops pulling. Self locking snares are illegal i.e. snares that continue to tighten by a ratchet as the animal struggles eventually strangling it. The key to constructing a free running snare is to use a non-collapsing eye and the correct wire. Snares are usually constructed from either brass or steel wire. Rabbit snares are usual made from 3 or 4 strands of brass wire, approximately 0.457 mm in diameter. These are folded in half around an eyelet and twisted together i.e. for a 3 strand snare the main cable will contain 6 twisted strands, with 3 strands around the eye. This is an important point as the weakest point in the snare is therefore at the eye. Such that if the cable were to snap it would most likely snap at the eye, safely releasing the animal without any part of the snare attached. Wire gauges and diameters are shown are given in figure 9.2.11.
| SWG Gauge | Diameter Inches | Diameter mm | SWG Gauge | Diameter Inches | Diameter mm | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 0 | 0.324 | 8.230 | 1 | 0.300 | 7.620 | |
| 2 | 0.276 | 7.010 | 3 | 0.252 | 6.401 | |
| 4 | 0.232 | 5.893 | 5 | 0.212 | 5.385 | |
| 6 | 0.192 | 4.877 | 7 | 0.176 | 4.470 | |
| 8 | 0.160 | 4.064 | 9 | 0.144 | 3.658 | |
| 10 | 0.128 | 3.251 | 11 | 0.116 | 2.946 | |
| 12 | 0.104 | 2.642 | 13 | 0.092 | 2.337 | |
| 14 | 0.080 | 2.032 | 15 | 0.072 | 1.828 | |
| 16 | 0.064 | 1.625 | 17 | 0.056 | 1.422 | |
| 18 | 0.048 | 1.219 | 19 | 0.040 | 1.016 | |
| 20 | 0.036 | 0.914 | 21 | 0.032 | 0.812 | |
| 22 | 0.028 | 0.711 | 23 | 0.024 | 0.609 | |
| 24 | 0.022 | 0.558 | 25 | 0.020 | 0.508 | |
| 26 | 0.018 | 0.457 | 27 | 0.016 | 0.416 | |
| 28 | 0.014 | 0.375 | 29 | 0.013 | 0.345 |
Figure 9.2.11 : Wire gauge and diameters
Guidelines for the use of snares in the UK can be obtained from the Department for environment food and rural affairs (DEFRA), given in the links at the end of this section. Their information on snaring rabbits is given below:
How to set snares to capture rabbits:
reference - DEFRA code of practice on the use of snares in fox and rabbit control
The tools I use to construct a snare are shown in figure 9.2.12, a good pair of wire cutters, pliers, an old drill (or nail) and a hooked weight (stone) for spinning / twisting the snare together. Tip, to secure the hook to the stone weight use a Turk’s head knot. To simplify snare construction you can use a jig as shown in figure 9.2.12.1. The end posts are made from a cut down 4mm nail, ensure that all burrs are filed off to avoid damaging the snare wires. Mount these posts inline, at each end of a wooden rod. Pre-drill two 3mm holes for these posts to prevent the wood from splitting when they are hammered in and secure in place with a little two part epoxy. Note, angle at least one post inwards slightly to aid the removal of the snare wires. The distance between the posts in this example is approximately 23", however, once twisted the snare’s length will be reduced by about 1". Note, post distance will need to be varied depending on the type of snare being made. The steps in constructing a snare are shown in figure 9.2.12.2. Place an eyelet on one post and hook the free end of the wire around the other. Wrap the wire around the eyelet and the other post such that there are 3 lengths of wire on each side. Note, be very careful not to kink the wire as you wrap it around the posts as the kinks significantly weaken the wire. Tip, deliberately forming a kink i.e. making a loop and pulling it tight is a good method of breaking the wire if you don’t have a pair of wire cutters. Next, lift off the eyelet and twist the wire one turn to hold it in place. Hook the eyelet onto the weight and place the other end onto the end of the drill (nail), twisting the free ends upwards to prevent them from being entangled in the snare when it is twisted. Lift the weight off the ground holding the snare wires in tension and spin the weight to twist the wires together. Tip, as the weight is spun pinch the wire between your thumb and finger, running them up and down the wire to ensure an even twist. Cut the top loop off the drill as this loop only has two complete loops. Finally loop this end around the drill again to form a 1.5" overlap. Twist these together to form the bottom eye. Tip, keep the two lengths of wire apart angled to form a ‘V’ when twisting this eye as this helps ensure that the wires wrap around each other evenly increasing its strength (twisting one wire around a stationary wire does not form such a strong eye). Note, don’t forget to pass the wire through the eyelet before forming the bottom eye otherwise it wont fit. A new snare will be shinny and have a human scent, the significance of this is argued in different texts i.e. whether or not this scares off the target species. One argument is not to worry as at dusk or dawn the snare will be less visible anyway. Also that rabbits are accustomed to human scent and are not necessarily scared off by it. From my limited experience I haven’t found that shine or scent have had a significant affect on the effectiveness of snaring. However, I can see the logic of these arguments. Traditional methods of removing the shine and scent include:
Figure 9.2.12 : Snares making tools
Figure 9.2.12.1 : Snares making jig
Figure 9.2.12.2 : Snare construction
A key aspect to making a legal snare is to have a free running eye. DEFRA’s guidelines state:
There are several designs of eyes and three are outlined below:
reference - DEFRA code of practice on the use of snares in fox and rabbit control
A simple 'loop' type eye can be used, however, there is a high probability that when the snare is under tension the eye will collapse preventing it from releasing when the animal stops pulling. Therefore, these types of eye would not be generally recommended. Some examples of non-collapsing eyes are shown in figure 9.2.13. Another important factor in making a free running snare is the type of cable used. Thin multi-strand or thick single strand wire snares tend to kink at the eye under tension forming a lock, again preventing the snare from releasing pressure when the animal stops pulling. Thicker, multi-strand cables which have a bit of spring (memory) in them are better as they are more flexible preventing this problem. Note, I’ve also read that the cable can be lubricated with paraffin wax or natural oil to again help prevent the eye from jamming. A possible disadvantage of this would be introducing a strange scent into the environment, scaring off the target animal. My preferred eye is a breakaway eye as it allows larger non target species to escape, a good example is Glenn Waters breakaway eyelet shown in figure 9.2.13.1. This eye can be constructed from 16 to 14 gauge galvanised steel wire. To make this eyelet you need to make a jig with two steel posts (approximately 4mm diameter) mounted about a wire’s diameter apart in a piece of wood (I add an extra post to the snare jig in figure 9.2.12.1). Initially the wire is wrapped around the smaller post. When the first loop is formed it is lifted off this post and repositioned such that the taller post is in the middle of the wire ‘V’. The eyelet is then formed by wrapping the wire around the taller post 3 – 4 times, as shown in figure 9.2.13.1. The surplus wire is cut off cleanly with a pair of wire cutters. An example of a completed snare is shown in figure 9.2.13.2, illustrating how the eyelet opens under excessive loading. Note, the thicker the wire and the smaller the jig posts the higher the release load will be.
Figure 9.2.13 : Snare eyelets
Figure 9.2.13.1 : Glenn Waters Breakaway eyelet
Figure 9.2.13.2 : Completed Glenn Waters Breakaway snare
An alternative to twisting a bottom eye is to incorporate a swivel into the snare. This has the advantage of allowing the snare to freely rotate preventing it from becoming twisted or kinked, both of which can severely reduce the cable’s strength. The swivel can be implemented using standard heavy duty sea fishing swivels or specially drilled plates and ferrules. However, another common solution is to construct this swivel out of galvanised steel wire. To construct the swivel’s body a jig like the one shown in figure 9.2.14 can be used. The jig’s wooden body is normally triangular or circular in shape, personally I prefer a triangle shaped base as its less likely to deform under loading (approximately 2cm deep and 1cm wide). Note, a hardwood jig must be used as softwoods will crack / split when the wire is bend around it. Into this wood a 1cm deep hole is drilled for a 4mm nail. One end of the wire is bend over the jig and wrapped around the nail (top row, second frame). The other end is then wrapped around the nail, under the first wire (top row, third frame). Both ends are then continued to be wrapped round the nail, 3 – 4 times to form the swivel body. One end is wrapped around another half turn and the excess cut off. Finally the nail is pulled out to allow the swivel body to be removed from the jig. To attach the swivel body to the snare a double knot is tied at the end of the cable as shown in figure 9.2.14.1. A small loop is formed in the end of the cable and the free end wrapped around the cable twice. To pull the knot tight the cable is placed between two pieces of wood tied together with a length of cord. The bottom end of the cable is held on a hook and the wood pulled upwards, the cable sliding through the wood tightening the knot on top. Note, ensure that the knot forms square to the cable. The bottom end of the cable is then pushed through the back of the swivel body such that the knot can rotate freely. Note, a washer can also be feed onto the cable, between the knot and the swivel body to ensure the knot rotates freely and that it can not be pulled through the swivel.
Figure 9.2.14 : Swivel body construction
Figure 9.2.14.1 : Attaching the swivel body to a snare
To attach the snare’s wire cable to its tether a length of cordage is used. This length of cord forms a flexible coupling between the cable and the stake helping to prevent wire fractures due to repeated twisting / bending. The cord should be made from man made fibre’s to prevent its strength degrading due to rotting. Note, some man made cordages don’t hold a knot well i.e. will slip under loading, therefore, test breaking strain and holding strength before use. Traditionally baler twine is used, however, the cordage used in the examples below were made from polypropylene rope fibres twisted together (two groups of three fine strands) to form a two ply cord. To tie this cord to its stake a simple turn and two half hitches can be used, shown in the left frame of figures 9.2.15. Alternatively a clove hitch and two locking half hitches can be used, shown in the right frame of figures 9.2.15, this having a slightly better holding strength. Tip, an overhand or figure of eight stop knot tied into the end of the cord ensures that the cord will not slip through the knot under loading. To attach the snare to the cord a loop is formed allowing a lark’s foot knot (sometimes called a lark’s head knot) to be tied in the bottom eyelet of the snare. Tip, tie a large loop as this means you don’t need to bend the snare to form this knot. When a single length of cord is used I normally form this loop using a bowline knot top frame of figure 9.2.15.1. An alternative solution is to use a double length of cord. The initial loop is formed in the middle of the cord by tying a figure of eight knot which is feed through the bottom eye of the snare to form the lark’s foot knot. The two free ends are then tied around the stake using one of the methods shown in figure 9.2.15, i.e. tied using doubled up cordage. The advantage of this approach (doubled up cordage) is that it forms a loop / handle in the cord which gives you a convenient handle to hold when you are pulling the snare out of the ground. The cord’s length doesn’t need to be too long, approximately 6" between the snare and its stake normally gives you enough length to position the snare correctly on its tealer. However, a slightly longer cord length does increase the shock absorbing properties of the cord (elasticity) helping to maintain the stake’s position in the ground.
Figure 9.2.15 : Attaching cord to stake, turn and two half hitches (left), clove hitch and two half hitches (right)
Figure 9.2.15.1: Attaching cord to snare, single cord bowline loop and lark’s foot (top), double cord figure of eight and lark’s foot
The traditional method of tethering a snare is to use a notched hard wood stake hammered into the ground, as shown in figure 9.2.16. The stake’s length is dependent on the soil i.e. in loose sandy soils a longer stake will be needed, in heavy clay soils a shorter stake can be used. It is also dependent on the stakes diameter i.e. the wider the stake the larger the contact area between the stake and the soil will be improving its grip. Note, to prevent the cord from being pulled off the top of the stake a notch must always be cut into it, this should be at least 1" from the top to prevent splitting when hammered into the ground. As a guide a stake a little thicker than your thumb (approximately 1") and at least 7" - 8" long will be required. However, always test the stake to ensure that it can’t be easily pulled out. In loose soil conditions two stakes can be used. A common solution is to have a main stake and a secondary smaller supporting stake to prevent the main stake from being worked loose, as shown in figure 9.2.16.1. Alternatively the load can be shared between two main stakes as shown in figure 9.2.16.2. These stakes are tied together using a thicker length of cord with a small loop tied in the middle using a figure of eight knot, onto which the snare’s cord can be attached. Note, a double notch has been used on these stakes to ensure that the cord can not be pulled off.
Figure 9.2.16 : Single stake anchor
Figure 9.2.16.1: Single stake anchor with support stake
Figure 9.2.16.2: Double stake anchor
A good alternative to a notched stick is to attach the cord to the stake using a drilled hole as shown in 9.2.17. This hole was drilled out using a awl and enlarged using the tip of a knife. The snares cord is passed through the hole and typically held in place by tying a figure of eight stop knot in the end of the cord. This works well having the added advantage of forming a second swivel allowing the cord to rotate within the hole. One disadvantage of using a stop knot is that the cord fibre’s can become jammed in the hole under loading, preventing it from rotating. To stop this a small wooden block can be used as shown in figure 9.2.17, i.e. forming a low friction bearing surface between the stake and the cord. This block can be easily formed by cutting off a short section of a suitably sized branch and drilling out the soft centre pith using an awl. The last two solutions shown in figures 9.2.17.1 and 9.2.17.2 are less common than the previous examples. The first of these is the Heeler stake shown in figure 9.2.17.1, approximately 3" wide and 4" long. The advantage of this type of peg is that it can be silently driven into the ground using the pressure from the heel of your boot (and hence the name). When I was first told of this type of stake I was a little unsure of its holding ability. However, since I’ve had a chance to try one out I was pleasantly surprised to find that they work really well, as its increased width compensates for its shortened length. The final type of tether is not really classed as a stake being similar to the earth anchor used in the shelter section. This is constructed from a wooden block approximately 3" – 4" in length and 1" wide, as shown in figure 9.2.17.2. A cord is attached to the middle of the block either through a central hole or round a recess cut into its sides (to prevent the cord from slipping off). To drive this anchor into the soil a specially shaped stick is used as shown in figure 9.2.17.3, having a front "V" slot and an undercut back recess. The ground anchor can be held in position on the stick by applying tension on the attached cord. The stick and anchor are pushed vertically into the ground to a depth of at least 8". Note, you may need to hammer the top of the stick to reach the required depth. The cord is now given a gentle tug to toggle the wooden block about the cord. This causes the back of the block to dig into the ground, thus preventing it from being extracted. The toggling motion does cause the block to move up the hole made by the insertion a little, therefore, depending on the soil conditions you may need to push it deeper to ensure that there is sufficient soil above the anchor to hold it in place. Note, the wooden block must be wider than the stick used to push it into the ground, otherwise there is a danger that the block will simply slide up the hole made by the stick. Tip, the back edge of the anchor can be sharpened to help it dig into the soil when pulled, also the front tip of the anchor can be angled to allow it to be more easily driven into the ground. With a little practice I found that this type of ground anchor works very well. However, their main disadvantage is that once pushed into the ground the only reliable way of getting them out is to dig them out, for that reason I would still use a standard stake.
Figure 9.2.17 : Single stake anchor with swivel
Figure 9.2.17.1 : Heeler stake anchor
Figure 9.2.17.2 : Ground anchors, side attachment (top), centre hole attachment (bottom)
Figure 9.2.17.3 : Driving an anchor into the ground
There is a lot of differing advice on where, how and what size of snare to set when hunting rabbits. The two main areas of contention are the size of snare and the height that the snare should be placed above the ground. The traditional advice is that the noose should be round and slightly larger than a clenched fist with the bottom wire suspended four fingers above the ground. For me this would be a noose diameter of approximately 4.5" and a distance above the ground of 3". DEFRA’s guidelines suggest a tear drop shaped noose 9" x 6" and a distance above the ground of 3". A good article by Glenn Waters again suggests a tear drop shaped noose 7.5" x 5.5" and a distance above the ground of 6.5". Reading around each person seems to have their own preferences, but most agree that there are no absolutes, being dependent on the length of the grass, the weather and the gradient of the run. However, in general there seems to be two schools of thoughts "small and low" and "large and high". The small and low camp follow the traditional approach described above, the advantage of this approach is that a small noose helps ensure that you only catch the animal around the neck and not the body i.e. helping to prevent the animal stepping through the snare. The arguments for this being that rabbits use well defined runs allowing you to quite accurately position the noose such that it catches the rabbit as it lands between hops. The counter argument to this approach is that it doesn’t take into account the rabbits ears increasing the risk of the snare tightening around the rabbit’s face and being knocked aside. The large and high camp therefore suggest a larger, higher noose. The height again preventing the animal stepping through the noose but being large enough to allow the head and ears to pass through cleanly. Another advantage of a larger tear drop shaped noose is that it covers a larger area of the run allowing for some deviation in the rabbit’s position. I do confess that I haven’t done enough snaring to appreciate all the subtleties or pass comment on which is the best advice, as a general rule I use a tear drop shaped noose approximately 7" x 6" and a distance above the ground of approximately 5" for flat ground and slightly lower on sloping ground of 4".
Figure 9.2.18 : Fence funnel point or bottleneck run
Figure 9.2.18.1 : Typical rabbit run, top frame high spots, bottom frame low spots (beats)
Figure 9.2.18.2 : Pheasant fence funnel run
Figure 9.2.18.3 : Examples of rabbit runs
Where you set your snare is equally as important as the size and type of snare used. Reading around and talking to people the most effective place to place a snare are at the funnel points in the rabbit’s run where it passes through fences on its way to its feeding grounds, as shown in figure 9.2.18 (runs marked in red). A rabbit run is quite easy to spot approximately a hands width wide, usually with rabbit droppings in places. Note, the key point to always remember is be sure it is a rabbit’s run not a run of a non target species e.g. a badger or fox. An angry badger or fox is not something you want to deal with, if in doubt go somewhere else. Tip, badgers tend to bulldoze / push their way under a fence making a larger hole, also look for badger fur on the fence wires. A common suggestion when placing a snare in a fence line is to cut the bottom wire where the run comes through the fence, pushing it to one side, enlarging the hole. The snare can then be tied onto the top fence wire, the noose taking up the top half of the hole. The example shown in figure 9.2.18.2 is on a Pheasant run, easily identified by the feather and foot prints left in the mud. Didn’t cut the fence wire for this snare as the Pheasants seemed quite happy to squeeze underneath. Also as this snare was for Pheasants copper wire was used as it doesn’t need to be as strong as for rabbits, tied directly to the top wire. An alternative to fence snares is to place the snare on a run in open ground as shown in figure 9.2.18.1. Looking down the run you can see high and low points along it, the high points are where the rabbit jumps (top frame of figure 9.2.18.1) and the low points being the areas were the rabbit lands (bottom frame of figure 9.2.18.1), which are called beats. The recommended place to set a snare along this type of run is mid point on a beat as indicated by the red line in the bottom frame of figure 9.2.18.1. Tip, set the snare on a straight section of the run i.e. well away from bends or where a run splits or merges with other runs, as the rabbits position on the run and its head position will be more constant (examples are given in the tracking section). Below are some useful documents on snare traps ive found on the web (due to possible copyright conflicts these are only accessible from the local machine) :
