I’ve always had an interest in primitive hunting and trapping as its one of the earliest examples of mechanical engineering e.g. windlasses, springs, pulleys and levers. The selection of materials with the correct properties to meet requirements e.g. wood, bone or stone. This interest is purely theoretical as I have never used these techniques in the wild. I would also add that in normal situations you should NOT use these techniques in the UK as some are illegal and others require the correct permits, licenses or the land owners permissions.
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Figure 9.1.0 : Australian returning boomerang
Figure 9.1.0.1 : Egyptian throwing stick, duck hunting
1. reference – The Metropolitan Museum of art : The life of the Ancient Egyptians
Variations of the throwing stick or rabbit stick can be found in many cultures all over the world, also known as a throwing club, throwing wood, baton, kylie, or the well known returning and non-returning boomerangs of the Australian aborigine’s. Used for hunting small mammals and birds, typically made from medium or hardwood, 12 to 24 inches in length with one end either weighted by a thicker heavier section or a curve. This extra weight or curve imparts momentum to the stick when thrown, increasing flight stability. I don’t fully understand the physics and subtleties of the various different designs, but there seems to be four basic styles: club, equal single bend (a stretched ‘V’ shape, less than 45 degrees), unequal single bend (a stretched ‘L’ shape) and double bend (a stretched ‘Z’ shape), examples are shown in figure 9.1.1. From reading around and searching the web, you don’t normally see a straight, constant diameter throwing stick, the exception to this is when metal, typically lead is used weight one end. Throwing sticks having a bend are normally thinned downed flat i.e. a bi-convex or thin oval, improving their aerodynamic profile, reducing weight, therefore, allowing them to travel greater distances. This profile is optimised for the returning boomerang, forming an aerofoil profile i.e. a flat bottom and a curved top, allowing the boomerang to generate lift. A common characteristic of these throwing sticks is that their edges are thinned down to a point, concentrating the kinetic energy on impact. Club type throwing sticks have a solid bulge, protuberance e.g. circular or oval, at one end and tend to be shorter than curved throwing sticks. Again the club end may be pointed to concentrating the kinetic energy on impact e.g. pointed, forked, tear drop or conical.
Figure 9.1.1 : Throwing Sticks
Throwing sticks with a bend are thrown using an overhand, sideways throwing action, imparting a spinning motion on the stick. This sideways spinning flight path increases the probability of making contact with the target. Some quotes on using throwing sticks:
“No deviation normal throwing sidearm motion, distal wing curved inward, projectile low to the ground was indicated. The throwing arm moved with a broad sweep using the whole arm but with some degree of wrist snap at the end of the action” Koerper, Pinkstopn and Wilken
“First, align the target by extending the non-throwing arm in line with the mid to lower section of the target. Slowly and repeatedly raise the throwing arm up and back until the throwing stick crosses the back at about a 45-degree angle or is in line with the non-throwing hip. Bring the throwing arm forward until it is just slightly above and parallel to the non-throwing arm. This will be the throwing stick's release point.” The Web
“The throwing wood is a crooked piece of wood, which is able to fly with or without having a grip. Generally it is thrown and then rotates in the air, but occasionally it also can be used as a club. Unlike the throwing club, the throwing wood does not concentrate on the effect of hitting. Only the variant which returns to the thrower is called a boomerang.” Lenoch
“Such a basic club can be thrown either overhand (when, for instance, you're trying to hit the side of a tree) or sidearm (when you're in an open area, where brush won't interfere with the stick's flight). In using the first method, point your left foot at the target (if you're a right-hander southpaws can simply reverse these directions). Then, holding the smaller end of the stick loosely in your right hand, bring the weapon back over your shoulder and hurl it, with good end-over-end spin, straight at the mark. At the moment of release, your shoulders should face the target squarely. The sidearm throw is similar to the motion used in stroking a tennis ball with the racket. Point the left toe at the target, bring the stick to a cocked position at your side, and throw it, squaring your shoulders and snapping the club as if you were cracking a whip to give it spin.” Brown
“What I remember from Tom's class was to pick a stick that was the length of the distance from your armpit to your wrist, and about 2 inches around. Such a stick will weigh between 2 and 3 pounds. If you throw it at any animal, any hit will break something, like a rib. We learned both an overhand throw, and a sidearm throw, where we would actually bounce the stick off the ground just short of the target, so it would bounce up and take the target out. On rabbits which sit so close to the ground, this particularly throw is used, unless there is brush between you and the sitting rabbit.” Paul
Club type throwing sticks can be thrown using a more targeted throwing action. Again, thrown using an overhand throwing motion, however, this time no sideways spin is used i.e. the club is thrown straight, heavy end first, this end making contact with the target. The handle increasing leverage and speed allowing the club to be thrown further and faster. Some books suggest that a twisting flick should be added just before release i.e. rotating the club inline with the directions of travel, improving its stability in flight.
Figure 9.1.2 : Equal single bend throwing sticks
Figure 9.1.2.1 : Club throwing sticks
Length = 30cm, Width = 3-8cm, Thickness = 3-8cm
Figure 9.1.2.2 : Double bend throwing sticks
Figure 9.1.2.3 : Long single bend throwing sticks
Length = 62cm, Width = 3-4cm, Thickness = 1-2cm
Figure 9.1.2.4 : Weighted throwing sticks
Length = 33cm, Width = 2-8cm, Thickness = 2-8cm
To make a throwing stick that contains a bend the simplest solution is find a piece of wood with a suitable natural bend, although this is sometimes easier said than done. However, as this type of throwing stick is normally thinned down to a flat profile, any unwanted bends or bumps can be minimised or removed completely with a bit of judicious trimming. When a suitable piece of wood cannot be found the wood can be formed into a curve by heating and bending. One technique I’ve read about is to heat green wood over hot coals to make it pliable, then placed it between two rocks, placing a heavy pressure rock on top to form the bend. Alternatively the wood could be steamed to make it more flexible, removed from the rocks when cooled.
The equal length single bend throwing stick shown in figure 9.1.2 is made from Beech, cut down and shaped using an axe to give a more aerodynamic profile. The club throwing stick shown in figure 9.1.2.1 is made from an evergreen shrub, not sure what species, a medium hardwood. Using a saw, stop cuts are made around the head, an axe is then used to form the handle (the stop cuts preventing the splits progressing to far). The double bend throwing stick shown in figure 9.1.2.2 is made from Ash, simply cut down and shaped using an axe. Ideally the top and bottom bends need to be a little longer and more angled, but this was the best of the wood available. The long single bend throwing stick shown in figure 9.1.2.3 is made from Birch. The bend is naturally formed, again shaped to improve its aerodynamic profile. Comparing these throwing sticks with some traditional non-returning Australian aboriginal boomerangs from the central desert they may need to be thinned down a little more. However, some examples from Tasmania and eastern Australia are of a similar size (or a little bigger) i.e. approx 2.5 feet long and 1 inch wide tapering at the ends slightly. Not sure what the best balance between weight, width and aerodynamic profile is. Note, its common to have scratches, groves carved into one end, to form a non-slip grip. The weighted throwing stick shown in figure 9.1.2.4 is made from Pittosporum with a flit head. The stone has a naturally formed hole allowing it to be easily mounted on the wooden handle. The handle is shaped to fit this hole, initially roughed out, the stone is then placed on the spike and tapped into position and then removed i.e. held upright and the bottom of the handle knocked on the ground. The compacted, marked areas are then trimmed away and the process repeated until the stone sits securely on the wooded handle. This is important as the spike will not be sufficient to hold the stone in position if the club lands awkwardly (not even a hardwood). Finally the stone is lashed in position through a hole within the handle.
Figure 9.1.3 : Thinned down single bend throwing stick with improved grip
Length = 43cm, Width = 4-5cm, Thickness = 1-2cm
Figure 9.1.3.1 : Thinned down double bend throwing stick
Length = 41cm, Width = 3-5cm, Thickness = 1-3cm
To assess the performance of each of these throwing sticks they were tested at various distances. The equal length single bend throwing stick (figure 9.1.2), flew like a lead balloon. Over short distances it was ok, but as it slowed down it would loose stability allowing the broad face to flip up, causing it to fall out of the air. To improve its flight path stability the stick’s width and thickness were reduced as shown in figure 9.1.3. This problem highlights the conflicting requirements involved in making a throwing stick i.e. to produce a flat, stable, long flight path requires a light weight, thin stick, however, to increase impact force requires a weighted, heavy, thick stick. Increasing a sticks weight can also have a negative affect on its throwing distance, requiring the release angle to be increased (relative to the ground) to improve distance. For the example in figure 9.1.3 reducing the stick’s width improved stability, although the handle was still difficult to hold, therefore, one end was thinned down and ridges added to improve grip. Although not as bad as the previous example the double bend example shown in figure 9.1.2.2 suffered a similar fate. Thinned down the lower section but kept the top thick to increase its weight.
Figure 9.1.3.2 : Small single bend throwing stick with weighted ends
Length = 39cm, Width = 4-5cm, Thickness = 1-5cm
Figure 9.1.3.3 : Large single bend throwing stick with weighted ends
Length = 72cm, Width = 4-5cm, Thickness = 1-5cm
Figure 9.1.3.4 : Short range club throwing stick
Length = 29cm, Width = 3-8cm, Thickness = 3-8cm
Figure 9.1.3.5 : Long handled club throwing stick
Length = 60cm, Width = 2-6cm, Thickness = 2-6cm
Recently I was introduced to a variation upon the single bend throwing stick design as shown in figures 9.1.3.2 (Pine) and 9.1.3.3 (Beech). These designs have a thinned down middle section shaped to a rough oval aerofoil. The ends of the stick are kept to the original diameter, carved slightly to reduce drag at the tips and lightened where required to balance the throwing stick at its central bend. These thicker end pieces seem to give the throwing stick a bit more stability in flight, I guess due to gyroscopic effect generated by these weights as it rotates i.e. keeping the throwing stick in its plane of rotation helping to prevent that fatal fluttering and instability. As always this extra weight has its advantages and disadvantages i.e. allows the throwing stick to impart a higher impact force, but at the cost of a shorter flight duration. Had the chance to experiment with a couple of different throwing sticks recently. The environment in which I used them included a mix of terrains, from fields, open wood land to dense forest. From practicing with these sticks I’ve come to the conclusion that I need a lot more practice and that trees seem to have a strange magnetic attraction on throwing sticks i.e. doesn’t seem to matter what you aim at a tree always gets in the way. I found the larger heavier throwing sticks e.g. figure 9.1.3.3, more difficult to aim, either releasing them too early or too late, overshooting or undershooting the target. I’m guessing this is due to the large amount of physical force / movement required in throwing these sticks i.e. a long arm swing and body twist, rather than a quick sharp arm / wrist flick. The advantage of these larger sticks is that the area covered by its rotational plane is significantly bigger than that of a smaller throwing stick, therefore, somewhat compensating for this aiming difficulty. Even so I still found it more difficult to consistently hit a target with this type of stick. Another disadvantage of the longer throwing stick is when you are in woodland i.e. finding a flight path through the trees. In these situation you have to throw the stick in the vertical plane to avoid the trees, limiting the advantage of this longer length. In such environments a shorter throwing stick is easier to use (and carry), some examples are shown in figures 9.1.3.2 and 9.1.3.4. I was told that the throwing stick shown in figure 9.1.3.4 is similar in design to a poachers ‘bullet’ stick used to take rabbits that had bolted into thick grass for cover. This type of short throwing stick is definitely easier to use in confined spaces. Looking at other throwing sticks of a similar design the handle’s are quite a bit thinner and shorter than the example I’ve carved. I was told this reduces the turning affect the handle has upon the throwing stick allowing it to travel in a straight line instead of spinning i.e. weight end first followed by the handle. However, I always seem to end up with a spin. Below are some useful documents on throwing sticks ive found on the web (due to possible copyright conflicts these are only accessible from the local machine) :
Figure 9.1.4 : Bolas: Boleadora (top), Ka-Lum-Ik-Toun (bottom)
The Bolas is constructed from a number of weights attached to a network of cords, designed to capture animals by entangling their legs or wings. The most common examples come from South America (the Boleadora), used by the Gauchos to capture Cattle, Rheas etc. The example shown in figure 9.1.4 has three weights made from stones wrapped in a leather sacks. Weights are 6 cm in diameter and 500 gm, the cords are approximately 70 cm in length. Weight and length can vary, however, I’ve read that its common to see examples with two shorter cords with heavier weights. The middle cord is thinner and longer having a lighter weight. The Boleadora is held by the lighter weight and spun horizontally in a circular motion above your head, then released. The principle being that when thrown the heavier weights fly parallel, the lighter weight wrapping around the animals legs when the heavier weights make contact. Other cultures also use this hunting device, Alaskan Inuit or Eskimos developed a bird Bolas i.e. the Ka-Lum-Ik-Toun, using four to eight weights. This was designed to catch birds in flight, held in the centre and spun horizontally in a circular motion above your head, then released into a flock of birds, hopefully entangling one or more birds. The example in figure 9.1.4 has six weights made form ivory, 2.5" x 1" and 10 gm, the cords are approximately 28" in length. A Bolas can be classified by the number of weights used :
A simple modern example of a Bolas is shown in figure 9.1.5, using metal ball bearings and nylon cord. The ball bearings are attached to the cord using a Monkey’s paw knot, as listed in cordage section. To tie this knot measure out approximately 30" of cord and wrap three turns around your fingers (or as many turns required to enclose the weight). Then pull these loops off your fingers and wrap three turns of cord around these loops. Tip, ensure you start this by wrapping the cord around the front of the loops not around the side / back. Finally wrap three loops around these centre loops to finish the knot. Note, when you have finished the first inner loop insert the weight, then finish off the last two loops to enclose it. When complete, starting at the free end push any slack cord back through the knot, if tied correctly each side will have three parallel lengths of cord. Then finally using an awl or a sharpened stick repeat this process to fully tighten the knot i.e. bottom left frame of figure 9.1.5 shows the difference in size between a fully tightened and loose knot. Four of these knots are then tied together using a simple overhand knot, the cords are approximately 30" in length. Below are some useful documents on the Bolas ive found on the web (due to possible copyright conflicts these are only accessible from the local machine) :
Figure 9.1.5 : Bolas : Ka-Lum-Ik-Toun
Figure 9.2.1 : Slings
The sling is found in many cultures around the world, interestingly not Australia, where spear throwing technologies dominate. One of its main advantages is its simplicity, constructed from a central pouch attached to two lengths of cord. These extend the users arm, allowing a stone to be thrown further and faster than by hand alone. The basic technique is to secure one cord to a finger via an end loop (called the retention cord), the other cord is held between the thumb and finger of the same hand (called the release cord). A round stone is then placed into the pouch. The sling is swung / rotated in the horizontal or vertical axis one or more times, increasing the stone’s angular velocity (the longer the cord the higher the impact energy will be). The cord held between thumb and finger is then released at the correct moment, causing the pouch to open, releasing the stone in the desired direction. Examples have been dated back to Neolithic people, during the Upper Paleolithic. Typically used to hunt small game, but more commonly birds. The first example shown in figure 9.2.2 is a copy of a design I found on the website: www.slinging.org. This design uses a simple three strand plait, the pouch being constructed from two parallel plaited lengths of cord, wide enough to hold the base of the stone securely, but short enough to prevent it falling through. The sling is constructed from 3 x 300cm lengths of cotton cord. Folding these in half to find the middle, plait a 8 - 10cm section to form the thumb loop. Tip, adjust your starting point such that when the two ends of the thumb loop are bought together the remaining six lengths of cord are approximately the same length. Next bring together the two ends of the plait to form a loop, pairing the six lengths of cord such that when the plait is continued using these pairs the loop is pulled tight. Continue to plait this double plait for 35 - 40cm to form the retention cord. Now separate the six lengths of cord into two sets of three and plait these for 5 - 10cm (forming the parallel pouch section). Again select these sets of cords such that when plaited this junction pulls tight. Note the length of these two single plaits form the pouch, the large these are the larger the stones that must be used. When the desired pouch size is formed, re-pair the lengths of cord and continue the double plait for 45 – 50cm to form the release cord. Finally fold back five lengths of cord, cutting them to 1 – 2cm lengths, then use the sixth length of cord to whip these into position to form a release knot that can be easily gripped between your thumb and finger.
Figure 9.2.2 : Sling : basic design
Figure 9.2.3 shows a modified version of the design used in figure 9.2.2. In this example a piece of netting is used to form an enclosed pouch, allowing a range of stone sizes to be used in the same sling i.e. to prevent smaller stones falling through the pouch. This netting is formed using a standard square net pattern e.g. a 4x4 or 5x5, using a 1 – 2cm mesh stick as described in the cordage section. This is then weaved into the parallel pouch sections as these plaits are formed. Another modification to this design is that a round six strand plait is used instead of a double three strand plait, giving a perfectly round retention and release cord.
Figure 9.2.3 : Sling : improved pouch
Figure 9.2.4 uses the same dimensions as the previous examples, however, this design has been simplified being constructed from a single length of cord, approximately 3m long. A single loop is tied 80 – 100 cm from one end using an overhand knot, this double length of cord forming the retention cord. Onto this loop a simple square net pouch is formed, 5x5 meshes using a 1.5cm mesh stick, as described in the cordage section. The remaining cord is used to produce the release cord. Both the retention and release cords use a double cord thickness to increase their strength, however, these will have a significantly lower breaking strain than the previous examples, therefore, smaller stones should be used.
Figure 9.2.4 : Sling : minimal design
The design in figure 9.2.5 is based on a prehistoric sling from Lovelock Cave, Nevada (reference below). The retention cord is formed using the same method as described in figure 9.1.8. When the pouch section is reached six additional lengths of cord are added into the plait, one at a time, forming a total of 12 warps or 6 warp pairs. Note each pair is made using one old and one new cord. The pouch is weaved by tying the weft cord around each warp pair, as shown in the first picture of the middle frame of figure 9.2.5. This process is repeated until the final warp pair is reached, whereupon the weft is wrapped around them three times, the pouch is then flipped over and the process repeated, additional weft cord being tied in when required. When the base of the pouch is reached the weft knots are formed more tightly to pull the warps in. The three strand plait is then continued, removing the new cords from the plait one at a time, for the desired length. Finally a small section of whipping is added to help secure the new weft cords.
Figure 9.2.5 : Sling : Prehistoric sling from Lovelock Cave
Below are some useful documents on slings ive found on the web (due to possible copyright conflicts these are only accessible from the local machine) :