Figure 6.1.0 : First Aid Kit
A first aid kit is an important item of equipment, especially when you are using a knife, axe or saw, therefore, it should be carried on your person (or what I do is just carry selected items in a pocket using a small stuff sack e.g. plasters, bandage etc, with the main first aid kit in the rucksack). The first aid kit should be stocked to handle every day and worst case scenarios, as typically you will be a significant distance from medical help. The first aid kit shown in figure 6.1.0 contains:
The most common requirements will by to treat minor cuts, splitters and blisters. To treat blisters, first clean the effected area with surgical spirits and drain using a sterilised needle (heated in flame) by making a small hole at the edge of the blister and gently push out the fluid. Then wipe on a little antiseptic cream or surgical spirit and cover with a suitable plaster or gauze and tape. Tip, ensure that the tape does not stick onto the blister as this can cause tearing when removed. If possible remove the cause of the blister in the shoe and increase padding using thicker or additional socks. At night allow blisters to dry by removing plasters and drain again. A rub with surgical spirits also helps harden and clean the skin on your feet and between your toes.
When using a knife its only a question of time before you pick up a small to medium size cut e.g. the knife slipping in your hand, a moment of carelessness rushing to finish a job etc. As always prevention is better than a cure so listen to that little voice of common sense. If in any doubts about the severity of an injury play safe and seek medical advice. Small cuts fall into two classes, those caused by the knife’s blade and those caused by the wood your cutting. Cuts caused by the knife’s blade can be deep and tend to be clean in both terms of shape and dirt i.e. only a small amount of dirt from the skin or blade enters the wound. This tends to be washed out quite easily by bleeding or when rinsed with clean water etc. Cuts caused by wood are the opposite, being jagged in shape and can deposit material in the wound which is more difficult to remove i.e. requiring tweezers, wipes etc. Apply pressure to the wound ideally with a clean cloth, failing that your hand or what ever is available. Raising the wound above your heart also helps to reduce the bleeding. When the bleeding reduces examine the cut and clean. Choose a suitable plaster, pulling the cut closed, applying additional tape to help immobilise the wound allowing the cut to knit back together. To allow the wound to heal quick don’t allow the wound to get too dry or too wet as this will cause the cut to open up again. When camping you should pay particular attention to medium sized cuts as these can easily become infected. Ensure these are covered with a suitable plaster i.e. keeping the cut clean and immobilised it whilst its healing. Tip, if a cut does become dirty keep a clean plaster on over night, its surprising how easily the dirt is drawn out. The disadvantage of keeping a plaster on for a long period of time is that it softens the skin, increasing the chance that the cut will reopen. When possible air the cut to allow the skin to harden, although not recommended I find that a wipe of surgical spirits helps, only a little as this will dry out the skin. Worst case scenarios are covered with a standard army field dressing and a selection of dressing pads and stretch bandages. Pain killers included; Paracetamol (general, reduce fever), Co-codamol (stronger), Ibuprofen (anti-inflammatory, aspirin based). Care should be taken when mixing Paracetamol based tablets i.e. Paracetamol and Co-codamol. Finally, Imodium tablets to treat bowl disorders. Below are some useful documents on medical advice ive found on the web (due to possible copyright conflicts these are only accessible from the local machine) :
Figure 6.1.1 : Emergency kit
This is a backup kit for those moments such as “what was that cracking sound” as you stand on your compass or “where did I put those matches”. It does not contain any medical supplies as this a separate kit in its own right i.e. a few plasters aren’t much use. The kit is based on a Gelert combat survival kit with additional items added to improve its effectiveness. The main purpose of this kit is to provide a means of making fire, clean water and rescue signalling in emergencies, therefore, it should be carried on your person. Fire making is possible using matches, flint and steel, cotton wool (tinder), rubber band (good fire lighter when lit with a match) and a candle. Fire wood can be cut using the wire saw. Water purification is possible using water purification tablets in a plastic bag marked with a 1 litre line (masking tape sealing tin can be used to patch bag), or boiling using the survival kits tin (volume 200 ml). Rescue signalling is possible using fire (smoke and light), whistle and signal mirror. The kit also contains a fishing kit, snare wire and nylon cord for trapping food, and other useful items. The survival kit shown in figure 6.1.1 contains:
A pocket kit is shown in 6.3. This has a carabineer with a build in LED torch that can be clipped onto a belt loop. Originally it had a build in compass, wasn’t very good, so removed to make a tinder box containing cotton wool saturated in petroleum jelly, enclosed with a metal lid made out of a tin can. Attached are a firesteel, whistle, compass, SAK and a bamboo tube containing a fishing kit(plugged with a cork containing four hooks, two fly’s, pre-tied and line) wrapped with 2m of three core nylon cord and 0.5m of eight strand brass wire (both can be un-twisted to produce thinner cord).
Figure 6.1.2 : Pocket kit
Although a fire does give out light, generally speaking a touch is a must have and should be carried on your person from late afternoon i.e. the sun can go down quicker than you realise, leaving you stranded in the dark. I normally take three torches with me, as shown in figure 6.1.3 with spare bulbs and batteries. Hand torches have their place, however a head torch makes life a lot easier i.e. when you need both hands free, no need to try and hold the torch in your mouth, under your arm etc. The torches in the middle and right are waterproof, AA battery, filament bulb versions. Battery life isn’t brilliant, can easily drain these flat in a night if used continuously. The torch on the left is an LED, AAA battery version, battery life is very good, therefore, is my preferred torch (unless its raining).
Figure 6.1.3 : Torches
Rucksacks are one item of equipment that I don’t mind spending a little more money on. In general the build quality of most modern rucksacks are fine, however, better quality ones do make life more comfortable i.e. fitting. The main problems I find with cheaper rucksacks are the zips (teeth too small, can be damaged / jammed by grit), shoulder and waste straps (not enough padding, can not be adjusted to fit correctly). The rucksack I have is a Karrimor Sabre 60/100 (60 – 100L depending on dividers), PLCE version (personal load carrying equipment, army term) non-segmented i.e. through bag with adjustable dividers, as shown in figure 6.1.4. Build quality is very good, there are a few little things I would change (a bit on the heavy side, but I guess this is always the trade off for strength), however, these can be forgive as its very comfortable to wear. Waste and shoulder straps are very nicely designed, easily adjustable, with a good thick layer of padding. If more space is required two standard PLCE side poaches can be fitted, giving approximately 25L extra capacity (these can be attached to a separate harness to form a day sack).
Equipment should not be stored in a rucksack loose, to simplify location and prevent loss. Clothes and sleeping bag are stored in a water proof lining, a 40L version is more than adequate for most needs. Other items are stored in stuff sacks. Pans should also be stored in suitable bags to prevent soot rubbing off on other items. In addition to the main rucksack, additional belt and rucksack webbing can be helpful. A water bottle belt poach simplifies access to water, reducing the number of times you need to take off your rucksack. General purpose utilities pouches (attached to the rucksack or belt) are useful for all those items that tend to accumulate in your pockets, shown in figure 6.1.4. Starting top left, going clockwise:
Below are some useful documents on rucksacks ive found on the web (due to possible copyright conflicts these are only accessible from the local machine) :
Figure 6.1.4 : Rucksack and webbing
Figure 6.1.4.1 : Fire making tin
Figure 6.1.4.2 : Utility pouch
Figure 6.1.5 : Boots
Boots are another item of equipment that can seriously effect your enjoyment, from general aching feet to the dreaded blisters and open sores. Their primary role is to protect a foot from bruising and abrasion. The key to success are layers of shock absorbing, cushioning material. This starts with the boot’s sole, choose one with a thick tread to provide good grip and help isolate the foot from sharp, bumpy surfaces (should still be flexible enough to allow a natural walking gait). A boot should have a snug fit, enough to keep the foot from slipping around in the shoe but not that tight that it wont allow the foot to swell (after a days walking). To aid in this, choose a boot with a well padded inner and sides. Another import layer of cushioning is provided by socks, which also absorb sweat and moisture away from the foot (capillary effect, wicking). The number and type of socks worn depends on the type of boot and temperature i.e. to avoid hot sweaty feet, however, a good quality woollen sock is difficult to beat. One theory says that a thick woollen sock allows a foot to breath (removing moisture), as the layer of air contained in the sock is forced out of the boot through the sock on each step. In cold weather I tend to wear two socks a thinner inner sock (synthetic: acrylic, polyester poly-propylene) and an outer woollen sock. The theory being that synthetic fibres remove water away from a foot quickly, which is then absorbed by the woollen sock (maybe). Tip, the general consensus seems to be that cotton socks are a bad idea as they loss their thermal insulation and deform when wet. Most modern medium / light weight walking boots are up to the job, requiring very little breaking in (after 30 minutes walking any areas requiring attention will be revealed).
One of the main aims of these layers of cushioning material and water removal is to prevent blisters. These can be very painful, therefore the key is to treat them as soon has a sore or hot spot occurs (as previously described). If possible remove any areas causing irritation e.g. stitching, sock seams. If only an inflamed area or blister has formed, cover with a layer of padding material and tape. If a large blister has formed it should be drained. This process may need to be repeated a number of times during the day (although sometimes it can be very difficult to get your boots back on after treatment, sometimes its best not to look). At the end of a walk, when camp is pitched, remove your boots and relax for a moment, leaving your socks on for a few minute to allow then to dry a little. Then remove your socks hanging them up to fully dry and air before examining your feet. Treat as before, also rub in a little surgical spirits around your toes and the sole of your foot. Change into clean socks and trainers if available (again for long walks I wouldn’t carry this extra weight). At night remove all padding material, drain and wipe with surgical spits again, this will allow the blisters to dry and the skin harden a little. In the morning pad and tape again before putting your boots on. Tip, don’t be mean with the tape, ensure the ends are on top of the foot to help prevent the tape working loose.
When the weather is bad its very easy for your boots to become water logged. After you have pitched camp, remove your boots and drain any water by hanging the boots upside down on a pair of sticks hammered into the ground (this is when a nice dry pair of trainers is much appreciated). Place the boots the right way up and stuff the with newspaper (if available), changing the paper after a few hours (I have heard that oats where once used). If no paper is available dirty cloth are an alternative, otherwise you just have to hope for a good drying breeze. Putting cold, wet boots on in the morning is not the most enjoyable experience but they do soon warm up. Tip, don’t try and dry your boot by the fire as this will melt and rubber and crack the leather. Also remember to position the boots under the tarp at night to stop them from being filled with rain water whilst your asleep.
When I started walking, hiking or trekking sticks were not that widely used, now they are common place. The theory being that you can take some of the load off your legs, transferring it through your arms and back. This is especially true if you use a pair of sticks. They also improving stability on steep or slippery ground, which can be of great help when carrying a heavy pack. Another advantage of a walking stick (or a pair of sticks) is that it can be used to support a tarp, as described in the shelter section. The main disadvantage is their weight and they can be difficult to transport i.e. on trains etc. Until recently I’ve not considered using a stick as I’ve not seen the need, however, with the advent of a small knee injury their possibilities have come back into focus. Of course the walking stick is not a new idea, the scout staff or stave is an example of a full length stick, made from wood being about 5’6" long and 1 1/2" in diameter. Ever useful for gauging the depth of rivers, puddles, poking things or just to lean on to admire the view. The length of the stick varies, other texts suggest they should be shoulder or armpit height. These are a little on the large size for me, I’ve gone for one approximately 4’ long (51") made from a piece of Willow, as shown in figure 6.1.6. Take your time choosing your wood, selecting a piece of green wood, as straight as possible and about an 1" in diameter. Note, finding a piece of wood that is perfectly straight is very difficult, some texts suggest bending / clamping the wood onto a flat surface to correct any flaws whilst the wood dries. Personally I don’t mind a few slight bends or twists, the key is to ensure that the handle and tip are inline with the applied force so that weight is transferred through the stick into the ground with out the tip slipping out from under you. When you have selected the wood it needs to be seasoned / dried to prevent cracking. Texts advise leaving the wood anything form 3 weeks to a year before removing the bark or starting carving. I couldn’t wait that long, also its easier to remove the bark straight away when the wood is green i.e. it just peals of in long strips. To prevent cracking tape a piece of plastic over the ends and hang or lay down outside in a shady, cool, dry place (not inside, the wood will dry too fast and crack). This ensures the wood dries evenly, minimising bending. The ends dry particularly quickly when exposed to the air and tend to crack first. This is also true for areas that have been carved such as holes or areas where side branches have been removed. During the early stages of drying these areas should be covered with plastic or coated with linseed oil to reduce water loss. Once the bark has been removed it’s a good idea to leave the wood for a week to let it dry out a little before starting carving. The walking stick’s handle has ridges carved into it to improve grip and a hole drilled (using tape wench) for a hand loop. Course and fine sand paper is then used to smooth down the carved areas and any knots. The tip of the walking stick is protected with a copper sleeve i.e. to prevent splintering and reduce wear. This is made form a small piece of copper pipe. The end is flared out using the shank of a drill (cutting face covered with card for a handle), rotating the drill around the inside of the pipe whilst levering it out. This is then hammered onto the end of the stick, held in place with two part epoxy glue. Modern walking sticks tend to have pointed metal tips, which give good grip on all surfaces (always feels like your harpooning something on ever step). The tip of this walking stick is a lot flatter which is fine for walking on soil or sand, however, it doesn’t give much grip on hard flat stone surfaces. Finally a spliced hand loop is added and a coat on linseed oil.
Figure 6.1.6 : Making a walking stick
Figure 6.1.6.1 : Walking stick, version 2
Figure 6.1.6.2 : Walking stick, version 3
Reading around the consensus seem to be that the stick should be held such that on level ground the lower and upper arm form a right angle about the elbow i.e. the lower arm is parallel to the ground. This grip will need to be adjusted when ascending (lower grip) and descending (higher grip) to maintain this angle. To help reduce the amount of hand pressure required to grip the stick a hand loop is commonly used, as shown in figure 6.1.7. This loop is used to support your hand transferring the weight down through the stick. Not sure what the best technique to use is i.e. is it best to transfer the load through the back or bottom of the hand, each seem to work equally well. An alternative to the hand loop is a forked grip, allowing your thumb to reduce the amount of hand pressure required to grip the stick, as shown in figure 6.1.6.1. Finding a suitable forked stick can be difficult, therefore, a fork from a different piece of wood can be attached. The example in figure 6.1.6.1 uses a plug and socket technique i.e. the staff is cut off square, a 2cm x 1cm hole is drilled/cut into the staff and the fork carved to fit. A small nail is hammered into the base of the plug, then using a pair of bolt cutters the head is cut off to form a new point. Both surfaces are covered with two part epoxy glue and the fork hammered into position i.e. the nail holding the pieces in place whilst the glue dries. The join is then covered with a Turk’s head knot (cordage section), glued in place and varnished. The next stick shown in figure 6.1.6.2 has a Pine pummel, the main stick is made from a sun spur cut from a Privet hedge (a surprisingly hard wood). The pummel was carved from a section of wood with a number of side branches to give an interesting pattern, sized to fit comfortable into the palm of the hand when held from the top. Attached to the main stick using a plug and socket joint, glued in place using a two part epoxy glue. To cover this join and to form a handle / grip, approximately 3-4m of nylon cord is tied below the pummel using two Turks head knots, then varnished. The hand loop is formed from two Boatswains whistle knots, the first forming the top loop, tightened around a groove in the pommel. The two cords from the base of this knot form the wrist strap, their ends secured by the second Boatswains knot i.e. the cords are paired up and the knot tied, forming a double loop. These are then pulled into the knot and the loop size adjusted to the correct size before the free ends are trimmed.
Figure 6.1.7 : Holding a walking stick
Figure 6.1.7.1 : Walking stick, version 4
Figure 6.1.7.2 : Walking stick, version 5
Making walking sticks is an addictive thing, you can’t walk past a suitable tree without pausing to think how it would look as a new addition to your collection. The walking sticks shown in figures 6.1.7.1 and 6.1.7.2 were inspired when I obtained a couple of pieces of antler. The version in figure 6.1.7.1 was made from a largish Spruce branch and carved down to size. The idea was to try and use softer wood to reduce weight, splitting a larger branch in half to obtain a nice straight section with a parallel grain to improve the sticks strength. The base of the antler was cut square using a hacksaw and a recess drilled out (3 cm), with the top of the stick carved to fit. I decided to also use a metal pin (3 mm stainless steel studding) to improve the strength of this joint, drilling out a 5 cm hole in the top of the stick and gluing it in place with two part epoxy. The antler was also glued in place with two part epoxy. Although this seemed like a good idea didn’t work that well, found it difficult to align the pin, wood and antler, the result being that the metal pin prevented the antler seating squarely onto the wood, resulting in a small gap on one side. To minimise this problem (if I was to use a metal pin again) would probably reduce the size of the pin to approximately 1 cm above the top of the wood. Once the glue had set tied a couple of Turks heads (cordage section) to form the grip and varnished using a dark wood stain. Tip, to prevent streaks when varnishing, less is more, better to apply multiple thin coats than one thick coat. Finally a piece of copper pipe was flared out using a metal bar and glued onto the end to protect the tip. One surprising thing I discovered from making this stick was how much the stick warped / bent once it had been carved out i.e. the stick was carved out perfectly straight but due to internal forces within the wood or due to uneven drying two bends formed down its length (wood was seasoned for 2 months). Not a problem as they cancelled each other out i.e. top and bottom were still inline.
The walking stick shown in figure 6.1.7.2 was made from a piece of Rowan (mountain Ash). Note, surprising how much this wood shrunk during drying, may be due to the amount of sap in the wood this time of year (spring). Tip, come to the conclusion that the best way to dry out / session a stick is to remove its bark, tie a piece of string to the thicker end and hang it up in a shady well ventilated room. The theory being that as it is not lying on or tied to another surface the wood will dry evenly helping to reduce bending / distortion as it dries. Note, need to seal the top and any knots with Linseed oil or a piece plastic sheet to reduce the risk of cracking (the bottom of the stick doesn’t need to be sealed). This walking stick again uses a piece of antler as its handle. After my troubles using a metal pin when making the previous stick decided not to use one this time. Therefore, made the wooden plug a bit longer to compensate for this i.e. giving a larger glued surface area. The grip was formed using a six strand round plait inlayed slightly by removing approximately 3 mm from the top section of the stick. The cordage used was Cotton parcel cord stain brown using wood stain (could of used a Nylon cord but this doesn’t take up the stain so readily). When tying this plait you can just use six lengths of cord, feeding them back up the plait when you reach the bottom. Tried to use this technique but could never quite get it right, therefore, just used separate lengths of cord for each pass down the plait. To finish the grip glued the ends in position using two part epoxy, hiding them under a Turks head. Note, trying the Turks head is a lot easier if you wrap a small piece of paper around the handle first, i.e. to give a nice flat surface, also taper the glued ends with a knife to help slide the Turks head down. Below are some useful documents on walking sticks ive found on the web (due to possible copyright conflicts these are only accessible from the local machine) :