Cordage (string, cord, rope) is a resource taken for granted today. However, to produce cordage in the field from natural fibres can take a significant amount of time (especially long lengths of thin strong cord). There are two main methods of producing a cord: twisting and plaiting. Normally twisting is used to produce an initial cord, which can be plaited or twisted into a larger diameter cord or rope. A number of different plants or inner bark fibres can be used e.g. nettle and inner Willow bark. The cordage produced from these fibres are not as strong as there commercial versions so a larger diameter cord will be required. To prevent cracking and breakage, care should be taken when tying a lashing or a knot, not to bend the cord too sharply. One solution is to moisten the cord, increasing its flexibility. The disadvantage of this technique is that water as well as softening the cord also causes the fibres to swell increasing its diameter, so that when the cord dries, tension in lashing or knot will be reduced. This is not a big disadvantage for figure eight or bowline knots as when loaded they will re-tighten.
Back to IndexThe outer fibres of the common nettle can be used to produce a strong thin cord. First, the leaves must be removed. This can be done by wrapping the stem with a cloth, pulling it quickly from bottom to top, rubbing off the leaves and stings from the stem. The fear of being stung is worse than the sting itself, however, if stung crush up a dock leaf with a little water to treat effected area (I’ve been told it can also be used for insect bites). The stems are then split with a knife, opened and flattened. Alternatively, the stem can be gently crushed with the butt of a knife, then using your thumb, opened and flattened. Next the stem is bend over a finger (inner core on top near a leaf stem), allowing the outer fibres to be gentle pulled away from the hard inner core. The outer fibres can then be dried until needed.
To twist the fibres into a cord, slightly moisten two fibre strands (not too much water as this will cause them to swell, resulting in a loose twist when dry). When held in the middle, one strand should be an inch shorter at each end than the other, such that when a new strand is added to the cord there will be an overlap (maintaining cord strength). Holding the two strands together, one end in each hand, between your thumb and finger, twist in the middle until a kink is formed. Then holding both ends in one hand between thumb and finger twist the kink gently to start the cord. Pull the cord up, through thumb and finger an inch, then twist both strands in the same direction by rolling them between the thumb and finger, increasing tension. When no more tension can be added, twist the kinked end in the opposite direction again to produce a cord. When a strand runs out, join another strand by twisting a new strand on (same direction). When finished tie an overhand knot in the end to stop the cord unwrapping.
Figure 4.1.0 : Nettle, Dock, Thistle and Willow herb (rosebay, common)
Figure 4.1.0.1 : Split nettle stem
Figure 4.1.0.2 : Initial bend & pull off outer fibre
Figure 4.1.0.3 : Twisted kettle cord
An alternative to nettles are thistles. Clean the stem of leaves and thorns using the back of a knife. The outer fibres are again used and can be removed in the same way as for nettles. For thistles I find that the fibres come away more cleanly if the stems are gentle crushed with the butt of a knife first. If the inner core is proving difficult to remove, lay the opened stem on a board (core upwards) and scrape clean with a knife. Another thorny source of fibres are brambles, blackberries etc, as shown in figure 4.1.1.1. The thorns and outer green bark can be scrapped off using the back of a knife, the inner bark can then be peeled off as for nettle. Again I found it easier when the stems were gently crushed with the butt of a knife first, but still quite difficult to strip off long continuous lengths. This may be due to the time of the year, as there will be less sap in the bark/wood during the autumn. However, the cordage produced is very strong, a lot stronger than Willow or thistle, even a bit stronger than stinging nettles.
Figure 4.1.1 : Thistle fibres and cord
Figure 4.1.1.1 : Bramble fibres and cord
A good source of plant fibres is the inner bark of Willow, as shown in figure 4.1.2. Using the back of a knife (ground square), scrape off the outer green bark (clean the back of the knife regularly). When all of the outer bark has been removed, slit the inner bark with a knife (top to bottom), run your thumb down the slit to remove the bark (easier in spring and summer when the branch is full of sap). This can now be cut into strips and twisted into cord (will need to be moistened if dry). Tip chose a long branch with few side stems, to produce long strips of fibres. Another technique to soften and strength the bark fibres is to simmer it in a solution of wood ash and the outer bark scrapings for half an hour (some sources say for 2 - 5 hours). To my understanding boiling allows the tannins in the outer bark to preserve the fibres and remove unwanted soft tissue. The wood ash forms an alkaline solution, neutralising the acids found in the bark, again increasing its durability and flexibility. Finally, a traditional way to preserve natural cordage is to apply beeswax, this helps inhibit desiccation and has an anti-bacterial quality too. The bark fibres can be used twisted or in strips. When using strips of bark you have to be careful not to bend the cord too sharply as this will cause cracking (which can making tying knots difficult). The best technique is secure the free end under a couple of turns (as you would starting a whipping) then tie off with a simple overhand or clove hitch. Quick temporary lashing can also be made using green Willow bark (inner and outer layers) as shown in figure 4.1.2.2. Cut into strips as before, these being either used flat or twisted. When moist these work very well, however, can become brittle when dry.
Figure 4.1.2 : Twisted inner Willow bark cord
Figure 4.1.2.1 : Dry Willow bark strip cordage
Figure 4.1.2.2 : Green Willow bark strip & twisted cordage
The roots of many trees and plants can be used to make cordage e.g. pine, alder and birch. Luckily the best roots tend to be found near the surface i.e. ones that are thin and flexible. Using a digging stick or spade, gently dig down until a suitable root is found. Expose its whole length before removing, don’t try and pull the root out of the ground as it will snap. Tip, a spade makes life a bit easier helping you chop / slice your way through the undergrowth. In general its best to remove the roots outer bark (not always required, depends on the root) using a brake (a thin stick with a 5cm split). Place the root into the split, holding the brake in one hand and the root in the other, push the brake along the root peeling off the bark. This removes the spongy outer layers leaving the harder central core. Tip, you will need to stop and clear the brake of bark a number of time for a long root. The split in the brake should be angled in both the vertical and horizontal directions as shown in figure 4.1.3.1. This allows the root to be easily inserted into the brake and pulled along it. Tip, a slight angle in the horizontal direction helps prevent the brake jamming and snapping the root, the tapered opening allows the root to be compressed gradually as it is pulled through. Large roots can be split in half or quartered to obtain cordage of the required thickness. Splitting also has the advantage of producing a cord with a flat edge, giving a lashing, more contact area and therefore strength. When splitting a root start the split with a knife then holding each halve between thumb and forefinger, using you middle fingers to guide your hands along the root, pull the two halves apart to continue the split. Tip, I find it easier to split a root if it held in tension (slight) i.e. secure the free end under your foot and pull taught whilst splitting. If the split starts to run off centre bend the thicker half more (a greater angle to the split) to re-centre, pay particular attention when approaching knots or bends, as these may need to be cut through using a knife. One root I’ve used a lot for bindings is Marram grass roots as shown in figure 4.1.3. These can be easily found in sand dunes. Find an exposed area of sand with Marram growing around its edge. The grass sends out runners, roots with young plants attached into this sand, dig down to expose the roots. These new, young roots are the best to use, older roots tend to be brittle. When splitting first remove any smaller roots and side stems with a knife, cutting against the angle of growth. If required the thin outer bark can be removed using a brake (not really required), however, I find this method tends to snap the root. A better method is to use the back of a knife, cutting through any large root nodules. Note, these root dry well and can be re-hydrated before use.
Figure 4.1.3 : Marram grass root cordage
Figure 4.1.3.1 : Pine root cordage
Figure 4.1.3.2 : Brakes for removing outer bark of roots
Below are some useful documents on cordage ive found on the web (due to possible copyright conflicts these are only accessible from the local machine) :
Figure 4.1.4: Knot board
1. Image : reference -
Here are some of the knots I commonly use. Simple overhand knots e.g. turn and two half hitches, fisherman knot etc, could be used in most cases, however, each knot has different characteristic depending on whether it has been tied in cord made from natural or synthetic fibres i.e. breaking strain (knots reduces a cords strength), does it jam, or slip etc. Therefore, knowledge of a range of knots simplifies life a bit and gives you choices when needed.
Figure 4.1.5 : Clove hitch (top) and Prusik knot (bottom)
Clove hitch in the bight (middle of cord) : twist cord to form a loop, place over object, repeat (same direction of twist), tighten. Good for securing branches together, starting a lashing, as it locks without the need to be held in tension. If additional second loops are added it becomes a Ossel knot.
Figure 4.1.6 : Bowline (top) and Eskimo bowline (bottom)
Bowline : (rhyme, rabbit comes up out of the hole, runs around the tree and back down the hole) good knot for producing a loop which can be used to form a free running noose.
Figure 4.1.7 : Reef knot (top left), Surgeons knot (top right) and Figure eight knot (bottom)
Reef knot : (rhyme, left over right, right over left) good general purpose knot, can slip if not in tension or if tied in synthetic cord. A surgeons knot has an additional twist to hold tension when the second stage is tied.
Figure 4.1.8 : Timber hitch (top) and Fisherman knot (bottom)
Fisherman knot : hold the two ends parallel, tie a overhand knot, turn cord around and repeat, pull tight
Figure 4.1.9 : Turn and two half hitches (top) and Hunters bend(bottom)
Hunters bend : good knot for synthetic materials, hold ends parallel, twist around finger, pass each end through the opposite side of the twist, tighten.
Plaits are an easy way to increase the strength of cordage produced by twisting.
Figure 4.1.10 : Three strand flat plait
Figure 4.1.10.1 : Four strand round plait
Four strand round plait : Two loops formed and linked, top cord is passed around the back of the plait and over the bottom cord, passing through the opposite loop, repeat. Below are some useful documents on other knots and lashings I’ve found on the web (due to possible copyright conflicts these are only accessible from the local machine) :
Below are some useful documents on basketry I’ve found on the web (due to possible copyright conflicts these are only accessible from the local machine) :
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